Among the fields of North Lincolnshire, Winteringham village is at first sight a tranquil backwater, but it is actually close to the mighty Humber Bridge and its links to the motorway network of the North-East. This revered restaurant takes its name precisely from the location, the ease of access drawing customers from nearby Scunthorpe to Leeds and beyond.
The restaurant is extremely comfortable, even luxurious, with marble floors, a handsome pine dresser, large lamps and bronze busts, but it remains cosy and intimate.
The superb amuse-bouches, such as the crispest fritter of hare and rabbit and croûte of root vegetables with chervil, served with minted yoghurt and apple, are the shape of great things to come. A fricassee of wild salmon, beautifully fresh with a hint of dill, comes with an exquisitely herbed salmon rillette, then there is a magnificent tranche of saddle lamb, pink, warmed through, served with a farce of lightly cooked lambs kidneys.
Another meal might start with cannelloni of pike and crayfish, consommé of crayfish and chilli, followed by a great speciality, potato crusted halibut with a warm salad of truffle and foie gras. The cheeseboard is outstanding for range and quality with as many as 35 cheeses to choose from.
Desserts are dazzling: a fine bread and butter pudding made from malted apricot bread and served with vanilla pod ice-cream; liquorice soufflé with orange powder and liquorice ice-cream, or a range of home made sorbets.
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